Monday, May 19, 2008

By the Sea in Italy

Just got to Switzerland! But more of that later. Im a bit behind of videos. Here's some good time with my host in Marsielle and a quick look at the charm of the beaches of Nice.

Jorin rockin out on the acoustic guitar. This was only about 30 minutes before the D string broke and nearly took out an eye and a drink.




Finally my harmonica comes to good use. We took this show in the road. We have groupies now. Be jealous.





Jorin had never heard the line: "Go ahead, make my day." Here I attempt to teach it to him. I think he came out sounding like Dr. Claw from Inspector Gadget.






The beaches in Nice. Can you pick out which one of these things is not like the other?






For the traveler, different cultures and customs within a short period of time are not uncommon. But was in 3 different countries attempting 3 different languages within one week. Whew. So by the time I got the Cinque Terre (Ching-quah Tair-uh), I had just gotten use to saying "Oui" and "Merci" in Nice. (Although the French didnt reall deserve a thank you.) BTW, allow me to clarify something from the last post - when I was complaining about the French, I was specificaly talking about those genial locals in the Riviera. My new friends in Paris and other aquaintences in the capital were much nicer and open to travelers. Apparently, its very common for the French in the south to be just as rude to all persons to dont speak perfect Francais.

On to Italy!

I decided to skip Milan, since everyone and their little dog on a leash told me it was a snoozefest, unless you're unvited by Prada to a huge fashion gala and put up in a fancy hotel. Not much for the backpacker in jeans and REI gear. (Ja-sohn!) The Cinque Terre has a quiet following amoung backpackers and frequesnt travellers as the best kept discovered secret in Italy, perhaps all of Europe.

Its a magical place - breathtaking views of the Mediteranian from one of 5 cities along the northwest coast of Italy. "Cinque Terre" = 5 towns. On the train, I met two other backpackers that spoke perfect English, and since non of really spoke any Italian, we were fast freinds and spent the whole time together. Follow our adventures in pictures and video:


We arrived after about a 7 hour journey on 3 different trains from the south of France. Lots of layovers - the trains in most of Europe leave exactly on time, but in Italy, they are notorious for just kind of leaving whenever. So heres a McDonalds at one station where we killed some time. They served real cappucinos in real coffee mugs. I had to document this.





This is the train station from high above. They are all nestled into the mountainside along with all these beautifully painted little buldings. The peach coloured building nest to the tracks is where I was lucky enough to pay over $7/hour for internet.





Here are my new friends and I (close ups soon) out for a proper Italian dinner. At this point, we might have used bread and cheese as a deadly weapon, we were so sick of it. So we dropped some kiz-ash and ate this awesome meal. Pictures never do food justice, but we all just had to document the fact that we were all eating real food. At a table. With a white table cloth. Ordering was a lesson is curious glances from our waiter, but the food tasted so good. My first of many pasta dishes in Italy Im assuming.





This is the oppitimy of the Cinque Terre. Laundry hangs outside beautifully painted buildings. They are only allowed to paint with on of five colours here. No black buildings in this place. Almost looks like Easter or the Gap came to town.






I love stealing these shots! The camera is down by my hip here, and I can only hope its centered. These types of scenes were everywhere. Its a collection of very small towns, so Im assuming this is one of the old pasttimes - sitting around and just shooting the bull.






Me and my new friends playing around. Thats me on the right, Jonah, and then Christie. Jonah is from Sacramento - born and raised! We traded so many stories about high schools and places we hung out as kids. Its so crazy to be talking about places like Country Club Mall and Bel Air Supermarkets on the coast of Italy. Most of that time, Christie just looked on and smiled. Which brings me to Christie. Such a nice girl from Canada. She was so kind and just laughed all the time. Jonah moved on to Rome after only one day, so Christie and I sat around and just chilled by the sea for another day or so. Got to know a good new friend here.





Here's me mad-dogging a painting of Van Gogh. There were murals everywhere here.





Im hiding in this picture. Can you find me? Sort of a Mount Rushmore thing going on here.





On the way back from dinner, the three of us spotted this boxed marked "Fragile". And of course, I said "Fra-jee-lay! I must be Italian!" It was so perfect. Christie was kind enough to lend us her leg in place of a leg lamp.





We got all artsy here. I like this pic - it wasnt green (thats the green in the colour of the light picked up by a six second exposure) but it felt this way.





Like any sophisticated traveler, I had to videotape our apartment. Dont tell me you havent done this.





The next morning we all made breakfast together! It was so great to have OJ and ham and fruit.





Out adventuring and hiking, we encounted this helicopter delivering cement for a new boat launch. Jonah and I were frozen with fascination everytime it came around, and Chirsie couldnt have cared less. "Guys like machines that fly" was all I could tell her without looking at her.





This is the view from the trail that you hike around the Cinque Terre.





Here's me being ridiculous. This pic turned out to be better than I thought because you can see that great hillside behind me trying to do something silly.





Hooray for jumping pictures! Notice the lady on the right:

Me: Were gonna take this picture now.
Lady: Ok..
Me: Just letting you know you might be in it (*hint, please move)
Lady: Yeah, ok.

So she was.





I passed by this car that was using a wooden plug as a gas cap. So great!






This lady fussed so much with her laundry. It was dry in minutes just from the friction.





This is soo cool! Postcards has this same shot - this is the qunticential view of the Cinque Terre. Little boats docked at the bottom would have probably enjoyed more exciting hours had they not been moored due to muggy weather.






Christie and I found this cool lemon fesitval in the biggest town, Monterosso. It was only there for two days, so good timing, huh? The lemons were so big - somewhere between the size of a large orange and a grapefruit.






This time I wanted a picture with these ladies. We all got these free bottles of red soda that are common here (although distributed by Coca Cola). That one lady on the left apparently is a wanted woman somewhere. No iris recogonition software can capture a profile. Good thinking, lady.





At the end of the trip, I had to run back and forth on this bridge. It was just a whole bunch of fun!





Im in Switzerland now, so when I get to Munich, I'll check back in with adventures from here. And now, right before I sign off, Mika, the roommate of my host, would like type something. My first guest blogger, take it away Mika!

Hi, will write to zou in french as I'm from the french part of that small country. Venez nous rendre visite, vous ne serez pas decu...and mostly...youll come back again!Mika

I couldnt wait - heres Mika writing this just minutes ago.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Yes, We Cannes!

Let me tell you about the French: They are the most giving, charitable, polite people in Europe. Always smiling and waving hello, holding the door, never pushing in line, and always willing to help you understand whatever is being spoken. They never pee on the street, and when a girl walks by, they simply keep their comments to themselves and tip their hat in respect. And they smell great.

If you believed any of that, Ive got some Francs I'd like to sell you. I hate to perpetuate stereotypes, but for the most part, everything you've heard is true. Rude. Arroagant. And that's just the cats. The French believer that everyone in the world should speak French, not English. Yet many deperately want to be and act American. Many times here in the South of France, Ive encoutered people who immediately start speaking French to me, and when I tell them (in French, thank you) that I dont speak French, they all do this little thing where they lean back and go "Ohhh..." and look me up and down. It's the only country in Europe Im told where they are surprised when they encounter someone who doesnt speak French. Yet they all speak English here, but dont want to admit it.

The French Rivera! I arrived in Marseille to find that the Sun was still shining somewhat. Apparently, the locals say that the weather is uncharacteristically (i spelled that wrong) wet. Here's me in a border town of Spain and France. Not my first baguette, but my first apparently that Ive tried to play like a guitar.





I took this really awesomely cheesy tourist train to the top of the hill to go to a church that looks out over Marseille.





Here's me being American.





So many building way down below, and they all look the same. And check out that pink eye dispenser - only 50 cents!





Very windy hear. I was happy to be wearing a new shirt. H&M is everywhere in Europe. (yea!)





The first thing I noticed when I arrived in Marseille: trash. Trash is everywhere.





My host Jorin (left) and some of his friends. He was one of the lucky ones to have a balcony. We spend time angering birds with our presence.





Jorin jamming on the guitar, and me on the harmonica. Theres a sweet video of this, but like everything else in France, this computer is stubborn, slow, and hates me.





NICE! Here in Nice the beach is all covered in rocks. No sand. And there are bulldozers combing the beack 2 or 3 times a day. Is this a weird sight or what?





A cool sight here: This boring sculpture is only mildly entertaining because its the birds favorite bathroom. Zoom in and look at the top. ahahaha





I snapped this Asian couple videotaping themselves throwing rocks into the ocean. They were having so much fun. This was fun to watch.





This woman, Theresa, is famous here. She was actually in my guidebook by name. She makes this egg type pancake called "socca" and its really good (pictured in front of us). She found out that i was from America and started showing me pictures of her two very attractive daughters who live in New York, and boasted that she was going there tomorrow. I dont think I ever saw her without a cigarette.





This old French man caught on that I was trying to take his photo.





Today took a day trip to Monte Carlo, which sounds great but actually turned out to be a snoozer. They are all set up for the Grande Prix, so until that happens, all the streets are blocked off with these big bleachers. But just imagine fast cars here.





Then I took the train the other directions and went to Cannes! I met up with this other couch surfer guy I had never met before and we explored the city.





Today was opening day of the Cannes Film Festival! It was PACKED.





Check out all of the semi professional photographers trying to catch a glimpse of the celebs. A French policeman grabbed my arm once because i wasnt walking exactly where he wanted me to be. By this time, I was sick of the French, so I shook him off and told him to watch it, and then he and three other policemen mad-dogged me as I walked away. Whatever, Pierre.





Here's all the professional photographers in tuxs snappig pics of celebs on the red carpet. I saw Sean Penn, Dennis Hopper, Eva Longoria, Aishwarya Rai, Natalie Portman, Julianna Moore, and Danny Glover. Click here to see Eva Longoria.









Here's Natalie Portman.





My new friend Adam caught me in front of the free beach movie screen. They'll be showing such films as Enter The Dragon and Blazing Saddles here for a week and a half.





The gem of the Festival - Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull preimeres on Sunday here. I thought about trying to come back for it, but seriously, its a zoo, and it would just be arm and arm with tourists. I cannot wait to see this film!






I dont think my videos are gonna appear in this post. Again, I blame the French. Off to Italy tomorrow for some more beach action. Dont know where Im staying, but it will be an adventure for sure!


Sunday, May 11, 2008

The Rain in Spain falls Mainly on the Plain....and apparently, its all Plain

Musings from a Starbucks window:


They mostly scrunch their shoulders. The few that are planners brought an umbrella, not that it helps. Inside here, it's warm and familiar. A motely crue of travlers and locals in dark clothes try to make the most of a rainy day. Starbucks is Starbucks anwhere. Same "art", same music, same soft and carefully planned lighting.


Outside the window, compacted pedestrians struggle with incorigable unbrellas that pop in and out of shape with the crankiness of a small child in a high chair. All sizes and shapes, it doesn't matter, they all got the same memo. And all these people respond the same way the their dilemma: frustration, irritation, and impatience. A non verbal argument takes place: "Ok, if you work for me now, then I promise to fold you up properly when we get home, and even tie that little strap around you and fast it with the velcro".


I love watching people come through the door from the rain. It's like they've crossed some sort of finish line. Congratulations, you've made it kind soul. For your efforts and courage in braving the elements, you are rewarded with over-priced legal addictive drugs, and a random rotation of John Coltrane and bands that want to be U2. Take a load of in any of the four first class seats (purple plush chairs by the window) or second class seats (wooden chairs everywhere else).


Those who choose to pass by this mecca continue on in playing the same game. Unbrellas shapped like martini glasses tell me the wind is still working just fine, yet the trees are amazingly still. Being trapped indoors on a rainy day is like being on time out. Sorry, you can't go out and play. Sit there until you're ready to be sorry.

~~~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~

Barcelona was mostly a bust. Over a couple of hours sitting there at that Starbucks reading and writing, I talked to several people, and in the evening went out with a few new friends. But when I woke up the next morning in the hostel (to a very loud French guy on the floor below - who I shushed through an open window), the rain was actually pouring harder than the day before. When I found out that my hostel was booked solid for the evening, I took that as my cue to leave. I really only walked up and down a very crowded tourist boulevard, saw one church, and hung out with a few friends at night. So, not really an entirely wasted day, but instead of 3-4 sunny days in Barcelona, I was back in the train station 24 hours later buying a ticket to Marseille. I've been in Marseille for a day now, but that's the nest post. Here's at least some pictures from my rainy day in Barcelona.


Next to my hostel off of the "Ramblas" (main drag), was this awesome market. Very huge, and selling sooo much fresh food and goods. Overly crowded as well because of the rain. This turned out to be the main attraction for me in Barcelona. I went here three times.





Countless stands like these sold every kind of fresh seafood you could imagine. Lots of tourists taking pictures, sure (guilty), but many serious shoppers too.





This lady was a master with that cleaver. Every time I came by she was there, cutting fish with broad chops within an inch or so of her fingers. Everyone was mesmorized by that cleaver. She wasn't the only butcher with one, but she knew how to use it. A prime location near the entrance to the fish area didn't hurt either.






The colours in this market were amazing. It made me so hungry. I ate a lot here, not to worry.





This was probably about the 4th attempt at this next picture. People kept walking right in front of me, so that half of the frame was all elbow. By the time I got this one, the butcher here was wise to me, and was giving me the stink eye. Click on this to check out that stare.





It's almost beautiful, until your realize it's all dead pig legs hanging there. But then you realize that ham is soooooo tasty, and it's alll right.

**warning** The picture after this one is pretty graphic in terms of animal parts, so put a hand over it or something to skip to the one after if that kind of thing makes you squirm**





This is totally crazy. They have certain butchers who only sell organs. I can't imagine a recipe calling for a skinned goat head, but just in case, this is your guy. Check out the brains in the plastic container at the top right corner. Dont miss that one tag in the goats eye.





Out on the Ramblas, there's always a show for pedestrians. Also doubles as a distraction for pickpockets.





With new friends, I went to this restaurant where all the food is on counters like this in appetizer portions. Your bill at the end is determined by how many toothpicks are left on your plate. It works on the honor system. Very good food here - a bit pricey - about $2 a stick, but very good.





We found this red V. I think I may have relatives here??





After this I stayed up chatting with people at the hostel, but the next day I was one my first of three trains to the south of France. More on that in the next post...