Sunday, June 8, 2008

Greys and Blues

Poland has been through some tough times. I guess that´s an understatement. Just in the 20th century alone, it was attacked and occupied by one country, only to be "liberated" and then occupied by that very same country. You can see fatigue everywhere - on the domino-style identical apartment high rises, as well as the faces of the middle-aged and elderly who remember the communist era. You can find beauty in Poland - but its earned. Every blue sky in the background of these pictures hovers over a land of rebuilt castles and unmarked graves. But if there´s one place to honor the victims of WWII, it´s Poland.

This is the main square in Krakow. Arguably one of the most breathtaking squares in Europe, once the moltey crüe of street performers, poets, and nuns fill the space in the daytime. Here I am joining in on all the fun being had in this statue.




I couldn´t understand a word this guy was saying, but I think with music sometimes, you dont need to.




Here´s me, fresh off the night train.




And then just a few minutes later:





They have these HUGE underground salt mines in Krakow. Sounds like an adventure to me. I mean, I´ve been to the Peppermill dozens of time, so don´t want to be lopsided here.





There´s really no way to accuately portray how deep this staircase actually was. But at its deepest point, the salt mine is over 550 feet in the ground.




They half joked that if we licked the walls, it would just taste like salt. That was all I needed. I was so thirsty when I left here - I must have licked close to a dozen surfaces. Tastes so good though.








Ok check this out - not even joshing you - this whole ballroom is carved out of salt. The ground, the walls (with murals of events of Jesus´life, btw), all the doorframes, everything. They hold formal dances here. Some Americans I met here - we were challenging each other to lick stuff. I licked the floor at the bottom of the stairs. Thank you, thank you.




The Last Supper, carved in salt. "Pass the sa....oh, nevermind!"





Back in Krakow - this is just a picture of me inside a giant iron head.




Let the crazy wig meeting be called to order! First item of business: stick with the perms or go straight?




These places - translated "Milk Bars" - are basically government subsidized public cafeterias. Kind of college food here. Except it tastes awesome. I had these amazing dumplings...oh man. Cant even explain it. Just really good, cheap food here.




I went to this jazz club later on - thats the owner in the white shirt blowin away on the alto sax. He would fling an amazing solo, and then sit in a chair and smoke his pipe until it was time for him to play again. Sometimes he´d just finish the song from the chair. I liked this guy - he was the kind of guy who took the party with him.




Auschwitz-Birkenau.
We all know what happened here. I don´t need to go into it. But I will share some pictures this time. I´ll spare the grapic ones, but here´s what I saw in several buildings: rooms and rooms of shoes, clothes, human hair made into blankets, combs, toothbrushs, and anything else the Nazis collected from innocent victims of the Holocaust. Here is a brief look at where manz people spent their last days in Poland.

This phrase adorns more than one concentration camp: "Work makes you free".




This is the ´dead zone´. Any attempt to escape was meant with deadly force. Not that it was a piece of cake getting through electrified barbed wire that surrounded the camp.




Another view from inside the camp. These brick buildings are where prisoners stayed. By German law, they were required to have heaters. But there was a loophole: they were never required to be filled with coal. The SS, showing no mercy, just left the unused heaters in the buildings without fuel.





Birkenau. This is giant, main facility mostly associated with Auschwitz. Its about 1 mile away from the actual Auschwitz grounds - and basically designed solely for extermination. These trains tracks lead right into the camp grounds - a sight most people would see for the first and last time.



One thing you notice when you are here is how big it is. It´s unbelieveable. But as big as it is, I have to admit it´s a little hard to really understand what it really looked like to the prisoners, when it´s so empty. Today, it´s a big and silent. Over 60 years ago, I can only imagine with the help of pictures as to what conditions were actually like. But there´s no one there today. I thought this as I walked around, and then my mind absurdly jumped to that scene in ´Blazzing Saddles´where they built all the fake cutouts of the poeople of Rockridge and then just put them everywhere (with little springy heads). I couldn´t help but smile to myself as I thought ´how ridiculous is it that Im thinking of ´Blazzing Saddles´here. At least it gave me something to smile about in this place, if only for a second. And then it occured to me: people had to make friends here, because without some friends to live for and with, there was nothing. And I bet in those conditions, good friends found some pretty absurd things to keep their spirits up from time to time.




Inside the bunkers - the SS guards built these bunks a little crooked on purpose; they stood a little taller as a result, and they could in turn fit more bunks in the room this way.




This is the famous selection platform. After the trian stopped in the grounds and people unloaded, a doctor of all people sentenced people to their fate. Anyone healthy enough to work was sent to one side. Jews, the Elderly, and children - children for crying out loud - under 12 years old were all sent down the path to the right, alongside the brown building, to the gas chambers.




This is one of the gates that led to one of two identical gas chamber/crematoriums. Days before Allied troops arrived, the SS blew them up with dynamite to try to hide their crimes. They sit here in the same condition the Allies found them.




Here´s a close up shot of one of the demolished crematoriums.




After the bodies were creamated, they were filled into a huge hole right next to the creamatorium. Today it is a gravesite.



A quick glance around Birkenau from the main tower:




I´ll finish this section of Auschwitz with this. It is almost impossible to go to a place like this an not jump and forth between two emotions: sadness and anger. I don´t understand this place. I dont understand people. And I don´t understand why God let it happen. I do believe in the sovreign nature of God, but when I see places like this, I just have to admit that I don´t understand why. And I don´t think I ever will.

Warsaw

Again, fresh off the night train. Let´s see if this one is any more lucid.




If I had a nickelf for every H&M store I´ve seen so far, well, I think I´d still only have about half a Euro.




Here´s a bunker where SS soldiers chased Polish soldiers attempting to fight back. Eventually, rather than let themselves be captured by the Nazi´s, the commited suicide. This is their grave.




Guess what I found on a wall! 12 Monkeys, anybody?




In Castle Sqaure, there was this huge exhibit with a bear made for every country recognized by the UN. Irelands had a leprechaun´s hat and Cuba´s bear was smoking a fat cigar.





Here´s a good lool at a lot of the bears. Also, check out the buildings in the backgroud. Pretty much every single building here in Old Town was flattened at the end of the war. Most had been around since the 1400´s. So, in an effort to recapture the old town feeling here, they painstakingly rebuilt. It looks good, but if you get up close to some buildings, it looks authentic in the same way most themed hotels do in Las Vegas. Just the right amount of exposed brick. But hey, the alternative was a heap of rubble.



The towb of the Unknown Soldier. The guard on the left said something to me in Polish when I leaned on one of the pillars.




I almost got in the way here at the changing of the guards.




I saw not one - but FIVE weddings in five different churches. Popular time to get married in early June.



Outside this chruch embedded in the brick is this momument. At the end of the war, a Nazi tank drove itself into this church full of resistance fighters, and blew itself up. Here built into the side of the rebuilt church, is a piece of the tanks tread.



This is the beautiful view I had before boarding the night train to Berlin. Poland has beautiful skies.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

A River Runs Through It

Prague, like many major European cities, has a river running through it. And like most, it basically bisects the city in half. Well, in this case, the river might as well have been a wall - because I never got across it. Let's see.....what shall I chalk this up to (at least partially)....hmmm....what do you call it? Oh yeah - RAIN.

I had three days and two nights in Prague - one of my only cities to be bookended by night trains. So I planned to go to one half one day, one half the other, and then just a free day to do whatever. Well, I should also mention that I either ate something in Budapest that wasn't so great, or that I've been up too late and getting up to early for about 3 cities now, or both. Because when I stepped off the night train from Budapest, I realized that the rickedy contraption they called a 'train', which had given me the worst night of sleep so far, had officially zapped me.

So I made it to my hosts house and crashed. Its taken hours of sleeping in in Prague each day to sort of catch back up in terms of physical endurance. I've walked over 300 by now at the halfway point, so it was good to rest a bit. Too bad it had to happen in a city as majestic as Prague.

Here I am boarding my night train in Budapest. Oh, Brian of three days ago, how I wish I could have warned you to the night's sleep (or lack thereof) ahead...




On the train, I entertained myself, like usual.



This part of the interior of my hosts place. Im staying at a cooking school! Relax, not on the stove. The owner/creator, Marcel, has an entire apartment in the back when I stayed. But then you walk out and it's like a whole other apartment that is just a kitchen. Marcel gave me a tour,and told me to just go into any fridge or cupboard and just take whatever I liked. Wow. I have stayed at some pretty random and great places along the way.



After sleeping in, I ventured into the Jewish Quarter. This is a ghetto of about 7 square blocks that Jews were bannished to live in in pre war and during the war. Here is a synagogue that is part of a 7 building tour of the area. Many aritfacts and objects of Jewish culture and heritage are in there.




Also part of the Jewish Quarter is this cemetary. It was the only cemetary Jews were allowed to bury their dead, and there isn't much real estate here, although more than is shown in this picture. Because they had limited space, they had to bury people often as much as 12 people deep, just one on top of another. Over time, these headstones settle and became crooked.



A common site at this cemetary are these two things: rocks and paper. (No scissors, ha.) The rocks laid on the gravestones symbolize when Jews used to just bury their dead in the sand, and would cover it over with large rocks to keep the body in place. The paper under these small stones are written prayers.



Inside another synagogue (this one about 500-600 years old), women weren't allowed to be in the same room with the men during prayer - something about how women can be distracting to men...has anyone ever heard of this? So check this out: There are the slots cut in the wall all around so women could stand on the other side of the walls and watch the service, without becoming a distraction to the menfolk. As I walked through, I thought "I bet there were some guys who would peer up during a prayer or two and wink at a pair of eyes they made contact with..." hahaha - No matter what time period it is, men are always men and women are always women.



Ooo....I bet that felt good.




I try to do one of these in at least every city. Do one yourself - I dont care how old you are, do it! There's something that just makes everybody happy about going up to a stranger and saying "Will you take a picture of me jumping in front of that church?"




Let this be a warning to you - if you're a liar liar pants on fire, you could become part of a tourist shop, too.




So great here. I saw this girl painting with watercolors or chalk that building in the back with the red roof. Just her sitting on that cobble stone street in the shade seemed like the most peaceful thing to do in early June. She never saw me, but I had to capture this.



Welcome to the Old Town! Let me take you on a quick spin tour of the Old Town Square.



This building is an old church (so many in Europe), but check this out: see that portion of wall painted pink? That used to extend alllll the way to the right of the picture to connect with another church (outta frame). However, when the Nazi's realized they were about to lose the war, they knocked it down with a tank, out of spite. The people of Prague rejoiced, ironically; they had always seen it as a 19th century eyesore in this medival square. Now, the remains of this pink wall (zoom in to see the broken edges) is Prague's monument to "sore losers".




In front of this same church are 27 crosses laid into the tile sidewalk. In June of 162o something, 27 monks were beheaded here for religious persecution. There was a time when Prague citizens would carefully step around these crosses when walking by out of respect. Now people stroll on by, talking on the phone or eating a sandwich.




Here's this crazy awesome Astronomical Clock Tower. It supposedly tells you not only the time, but also the position of the sun and the moon, when the sunset will be, and other complicated astronomically related stuff. I thought it was colourful and big.

Supposedly (no one I talked to seems to know if this is rumor or fact), but supposedly the people of Prague were so impressed and delighted at the pristine craftsmanship of this clock, they blinded the artist upon its completion so he wouldn't recreate it in another city. However: I saw a clock very much like this in Bern, Switzerland. See for yourself: there's a picture on my Swiss blog of me (what else) jumping in front of it.




Check out what it does at the top of every hour: The skelton holding the hourglass and ringing the bell is supposed to symbolize that our time is all running out...



The Spanish Synagogue. The self proclaimed "Most Beautiful Synagogue in Europe". There may be something to this statement. Just look at how orante it is. Lots of WWII memorabilia upstairs here too, about Prague citizens that never returned from concentration camps. One person I heard nearby asked "How is the religious community today?" The answer: Services dont happen all that freqently here in Prague, just once in a while - because there are only about 1,500 Jews practicing in Prague. Before the War, there were over 30,000.

At night many churches and synagogues host classical concerts (mostly for tourists). This one was amazing! "Gershwins Greatest Hits" it was called, along with a few other composers' works. And just imagine how it would have sounded in such a huge place. Amoung the great tunes performed by this quintet of strings and one trumpet:

-West Side Story: Main Theme and Maria
-Rhapsody in Blue
-An American in Paris
-I Got Rhythm
-Smoke Gets in Your Eyes
-Someone To Watch Over Me



Here's a little "Someone to Watch Over Me".




Back at the chef school with Marcel. After a night teaching people how to cook some Mexican dishes, I got to sample a few...mmm..




The next day I had decided to try and see the other side of the river, and also check out to see what other concerts I could find to go to that night. Maybe mix it up, I thought, how about some blues, jazz, a little who knows. A conversation with Marcel in the (late) morning:

Me: Yeah, so I'm thinking about going to see another concert tonight. There sure are a lot to choose from in town.
Marcel: Yeah. Like Metallica.
Me:.....(thinking the Czech accent had made me hear it wrong)...what?
Marcel: Yeah, you know, like how Metallica is playing here tonight. I wish I could go.
Me: ....(long silence)...You're kidding me.
Marcel: (smiling) Nope.
Me: (Just smiling and nodding).

Betcha didn't know I like Metallica, did you? I decided to cross the river and enjoy the other side of town as much as I could before going to the concert. That never happened. I got the equivalent of a $45 ticket on the tram for not having the proper ticket (my fault, but still to steep - a person later joked that a Czech person could get to Italy for that kind of money...thanks). Then my card was declined at ATM after ATM. Apparetnly almost no ATMs in the Czech Republic are on the Star Network, which is what I need. So I had to back track to the only ATM I knew worked for me the day earlier at the train station. Boo. (1st attempt to cross the river, fail.)

I didn't know if I would be able to get a ticket or not, but Marcel assured me it was no problem outside the stadium. Check out the loads of people in black t-shirts pouting out of the trams.




I got one!!!! Only paid about 15% above ticket price too, not to shabby.




That's not an illusion: James Hetfield is actualy playing two guitars at once. So cool.




This picture turned out sooo cool. Check out Lars (the drummer on the big screen) it looks like he's eating James! ahaha




Here's a little taste of Master of Puppets! I love when crowds all know the words at a concert.



Best picture of the concert. James always stands like he just got off a horse and still retains the shape, I thought. Captured this cool pic as they were switching to another shot.





Here's a little dedication that James (the lead singer) made just for me! Catch me very quickly near the end shouting "That's me!"




On the tram ride home: What is the deal with these "long shorts/short pants" things that are all the rage in Europe? Make your mind, people! I've heard Europeans think wearing actual shorts are only for the beach, and at any other time conidered tacky. So they comprimise with about 4 inches of exposed thigh. Ooo, daring. I think they look so dumb. Check out the guy further back with a jeans version + a fanny pack.




What a crazy, awesome two very different nights I had in Prague. First, a classical concert, then a hard rock concert.

So I said "Today the third day. Im going across the river". Nope. Rain. Here i sit like a caged animal checkin email. (2nd attempt to cross the river, fail.)




Marcel and I decided to make "breakfast" around 3pm. Bacon and eggs....oh man....I haven't had those in a long time. So much bread and cheese along the way...this was like heaven.



So, this is what you get when it rains - a very thorough blog! About to get on my next night train....hoping it will be smoother, but not holding my breath. Off to Poland now. Probably going to be one of the toughest countries to visit, in terms of war history...

Monday, June 2, 2008

Büdös Zokni

The title of this blog is a Hungarian phrase - a phrase I learned several years ago from a Hungarian girl I worked with, and for some reason I've always remembered it. I'll leave it to you to figure out what it means - it's so appropriate for this trip. Kind of ironic too that the only thing I know in Hungarian is perfect.

And BTW, sorry to disappoint you Dad, but yeah, the I Hate Computers thing was totally me. I just got so frustrated - I've been lucky enought to use a lot of my hosts computers, but I cant tell you how many times Ive had posts erased or windows freeze or Skype calls just sound horrible. Example: I received a bill I shouldnt have from Verizon, so in Munich I had to call them from an internet cafe. The headset I was on was so bad, that I was basically yelling things like "I shouldnt receive a bill at all until August!!!" Im sure everyone there apprciated that. So, there you have it.

Budapest! Again, dont have much time on the computer, so Ill just let pics and vids do the talking.

Here's the city at night - kinda blurry yea, but it looked so cool in person. My host told me that many people are irritated with that company that has a blue lit up sign because it supposedly ruins the night sky.




A cool corridor I saw.





Im pretty gangsta, in case you didnt know.




Ok, so here's one of many statues in Budapest. I didn't realize it until after, but I totally have my hand in this guy's crotch. How ridiculous. But I had to put this up. Why didn't anybody tell me?




Here's me walking around with my host, Andi. She's from Transylvania! This is classic example of her trying to explain something to me, and me only understanding about every third word. It was like this the whole time, but we just laughed about it.





Street fair! I am 13 years old.




This chick was so cool - she had an entire rennassaince dress made out of paper machey! Dang, I don't know the spelling of those words at all... (haha, she blinked in the photo - that always looks so weird.)




I am eating my way across the continent.




I was playing guitar when my host grabbed my camera and took a very blurry shot of me. But this is what I do a lot here, so here it is!





I must have tried this picture about 10 times. I was trying to get it to look like the balloon was an ice cream cone. Almost! But I think it came out ok. hahaha




Now that's backpacking - it's a backpack full of beer!




I ate from one of these later on. This street fair had food in cauldrons - cauldrons!




At this outdoor festival, they had this great musical group with all these different types of funky guitars. It was sooooo much fun. Kind like Dave Matthews band mixed with Buena Vista Social Club.




Here's a building I came across on a tour of Castle Hill - check out all the bullet hole damage from WWII.




Whilst walking around Castle Hill, I read in my guide book (thank you Rick Steves) that there was an underground labryinth nearby. Yes! This was by far the coolest thing I did in Budapest. Very creepy, but loads of fun.




Some footage of the creepiness:





There were so many different types of things built into the rock. Check out that horse.



This thing had real wine pouring out of it. (I tasted it.....eh.)




Budapest during the day. Classic self photo.


.

Check this out: The Hilton hotel that is here incorporated a old church into their hotel. This would have been the interior of the nave, now an open courtyard. If you look closely, you can even see tombs in the ground, up past the steps.




Ok, here's why this picture is so significant: right after the camera snapped this, i totally made that lantern come crashing to the ground. It wasn't secured very good, and so I did my best to put it back. It made so much noise. Those archways are only about 1000 years old.





And now Im in Prague! Hope to blog before I leave, although dont have much faith in computers.... :)

Sunday, June 1, 2008

I Hate Computers

I hate computers. I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers. "I hate computers I hate computers", I hate computers I hate computers. I hate computers.

I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers........I hate computers I hate computers.

I hate:
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers
- computers

I hate computers. I hate computers, I hate computers! (I hate computers). I hate............computers.

I hate computers- I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers.
I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers, I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers, I hate computers I hate computers I hate computers.

I hate computers,
Brian